We Cracked the Code
Those of you who have come to Cabo Pulmo know what a special place it is. Those who have not, but have spent any time with me, have listened to me rhapsodize about the snorkeling and the type (and abundance) of fish living in this protected reef system. For all the corruption and graft happening in Mexico they have taken care of this precious area, though it has been more of a two-steps-forward-one-step-back kind of thing. A few years ago they made anyone snorkeling in the reef area wear a wristband to show they’d paid the fee, all proceeds going to the government organization in charge of the environment. This year, no wristbands. There is now signage regarding what is being done to protect the reef and recycling stations throughout the village, so I guess that’s a start. But they’ve lost the revenue from the snorkelers. One way to make it back is to charge for parking at Los Arbolitos, one of the snorkeling beaches. It’s $3 per person, and there is a live human being keeping an eye on your car. I’m good with that. I’ve also never seen this many people in Cabo Pulmo at the same time. There are folks walking around, the restaurants all have business, the beaches could even be called, well, crowded. That is, crowded for here, which means we saw 3 cars and a camper at Los Arbolitos. Maybe 12 people.
We’d been told you could walk over the bluff from Los Arbolitos and it was about a mile, but we’d never attempted it. Si Senor, 15 minute walk. Maybe if you’re 21 and on the Olympic Biathlon Team.
The place that we really love is called La Serenita or Mermaid Beach. The only way we’ve ever gotten there has been by boat. We’d been told you could walk over the bluff from Los Arbolitos and it was about a mile, but we’d never attempted it. In hindsight I think some of the folks we’d traveled with would not easily have made the trek, and based on the proximity to the edge of the bluff, the width of the trail, and the height of the cliffs and the klutziness of the person in question we quite possibly could have saved someone a fortune in divorce lawyer’s fees if we’d tried. So here we are, an Audubon trained naturalist (that would be Mary), her good friend (that would be me) and our Sherpa (that would be Steve), prepared to give it a shot. Si Senor, 15 minute walk. Maybe if you’re 21 and on the Olympic Biathlon Team. It took us about 25 minutes of “so far so good”, “this looks dicey, lets take the high trail”, and “Jesus Christ, what do you mean you don’t have your Epi pen!” as we maneuver through the damiana flowers teeming with honeybees. I exaggerate. I never said it out loud, and I never asked, but I’d bet you $100 it was back at the house in the luggage so I just tried not to give it any energy. The trek was worth the trip. Along with honeybees, salvia, damiana, a kingfisher and geckos we saw a rather large snake (sorry Hunter, no can identify other than to say we were thankful it’s tail didn’t rattle. And it was gray.), beautiful vistas, the place Mary wants to drop a house when she hits the lottery, several secluded coves, and then La Serenita, the boulder strewn cove with the magnificent snorkeling. WE CRACKED THE CODE! We now know how to get there without paying a fortune for a boat drop off.
The fish didn’t disappoint. moorish idol, cabo rainbow wrasse, balloonfish, boxfish, parrotfish, cornetfish and scissortail damselfish were all in evidence. I have pictures to prove it. And during my husband’s first foray into underwater photography he managed to get a great picture of my chest. The water was clear and cool, with a milky sky of sun with high thin clouds. Mary, still a novice with the snorkeling, floated happily in the protected cove, communing with a balloonfish. We didn’t bring the beer as we didn’t want to overload the Sherpa, but we did have tasty cilantro tuna salad wraps with avocado, lettuce and tomato. Nothing like a great sandwich when you’re all sandy and salty and tired from hiking and swimming.
Before we’d left for our snorkeling adventure we’d again communed with nature in the wild place that is the Jewel of Cabo Pulmo’s garden. The word is officially out; not only do we have food but we serve treats, like oranges. Mary managed to fasten orange halves to a tree near the feeder and across the garden in the arms of a cactus. The cactus wren was the first to notice; he even dropped the nesting materials he was carrying to imbibe in the tasty goodness. The orioles and cardinals took part, as did the vireo, but the woodpecker staked a claim. He stayed and ate for the longest time, and then just hung out, probably saying “Mine, and you can’t have ANY”. By the time we returned from La Serenita there was nothing but pith and peel, baby, pith and peel. The crowds today should be HUGE!
We dined out last night, at the Coral Reef, the restaurant over the Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort’s dive shop. It’s elevated location made for a great sunset and nice view. Unfortunately the Shrimp Ajillo I remember from years past was not on the menu, and they had, with the exception of a Mexican combination plate, really Americanized the menu. The fried calamari was tasty, and they made shrimp ajillo especially for me, but it wasn’t as good as I remember. Steve and Mary were happy with their Shrimp Gourmet and Mexican Combo. I think we’ll dine in tonight.
Mary is reading Kinship With All Life by Jay Allen Boone (descendent of Daniel) regarding his caretaking of and relationship with the Hollywood dog Strongheart. It was written in 1954, and a paperback copy happened to be here in the house. It has really touched her deeply, and she’s re-reading it to absorb any bits she might have missed the first time. And she’s having some interesting animal encounters. She was buzzed by a friendly Rottweiler on the beach. Last night we were hanging on the porch after dinner and out of nowhere a large yellow dog bounded through the dark yard. The property is gated on all sides. How did he get in? He made two runs through the yard when Mary and Steve walked to the outer yard to make sure he could exit. He was gone. How did he get out? Ghost of Strongheart coming by to check in? Strongheart was a German Shepherd, so I guess not. Emissary of Strongheart? Hmmm.
Birds, yoga, and yogurt and granola are calling me.
As they say in the Caribbean, All the Best for the Day!
