Do you know this guy?

He’s Christopher Kimball. He’s the face of America’s Test Kitchen (ATK) and Cook’s Illustrated Magazine. Well, was the face. He’s started a new venture, Milk Street Magazine, along with a PBS TV show and radio program. The problem is that he began work on the new venture while he was still employed by ATK. When he started poaching their vendors and employees they severed ties, sort of. He’s still a limited partner but is no longer on the show or writing for the magazine. And ATK is suing him.

I have long been a fan of ATK and Cook’s Illustrated. Some of my favorite recipes are theirs, and the food science behind why things do what they do in the kitchen I find interesting, enlightening and helpful. They have made me a better cook. Christopher Kimball’s ubiquitous glasses and bow tie and slightly annoying attitude make him an easy man to spot, and I must say his writing style is highly recognizable. So when the figurehead of the organization took a hike I was disappointed by his absence and yet equally disturbed by his behavior; whether or not you have a non-compete clause in your contract it’s really bad form to start a similar new business while you’re still working for the old one. Part of me felt betrayed, part of me was curious. What was he doing differently? Or better?

So when the charter issue of Milk Street Magazine was being offered up for free I decided to grab one just to see if ATK was blowing things out of proportion. They were… And they weren’t.

   

Milk Street has the same format, beautiful illustrations, great photography, and heavy stock. It has recipes with the science behind them, like ATK. It reviews tools and accessories, and also reviews books (which ATK usually does not). It differs by having more interview pieces with chefs and essays on international cuisines. But it isn’t that different and I’m guessing ATK might have a leg to stand on.

So where does this leave ATK creatively? I’m not sure – I’ll have to keep reading and stay tuned, although in the issues I’ve received of Cook’s Illustrated thus far the only thing I miss is Kimball’s essay on the opening page. There are still great recipes, techniques and lots of info. I’ll live. And Milk Street does have his essay, and quite a few tasty looking recipes I plan on trying, including a couple for Christmas. Chocolate, Prune and Rum Cake, anyone? Rosemary Pine Nut cookies? You bet your reindeer.

Will I subscribe? Jury’s still out. I’ll yet you know after we taste the goods. It’s for journalism’s sake, you know.

I’ll keep you posted.

Deborah